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Hamamı with Music

Monday evening of our second week in Turkey, Renee, Eileen, Phyllis, and I go in search of a Turkish bath in Antayla. We stroll the winding stone roads of the Old Town area and find Tarihi Balik Pazari Hamamı not far from Ninova Pension where we have been staying.

We all order the full treatment: steam bath, scrub, and oil massage. First, get naked! We store our clothing in a locker and pin the key to our towel. In the steam bath, we rinse with hot and cold running water, getting good and hot and steamy. After about 15 minutes of that, Eileen goes first into the adjoining room to be scrubbed.

The rest of us continue steaming and wonder what the scrub will be like. At my turn, I am amazed at the gunk - there really is no other word - that comes off me. "Ow!" I cried out. The woman working on me picks up my hand and places it on my chest to feel the dead skin that is coming off. Her facial expression says, "This is so good for you, no?" I decide to trust that she knows what she is doing and I will be alright.

Then she starts singing! A beautiful, simple melody. I am listening and I begin to sing along. It sounds like she is singing, "tin, tin, tini mini harum" and "shim o say, sin a mini harum." She is encouraged by my singing and I tell her I am a music teacher. "Ben muzik professori."

After we each have been scrubbed thoroughly and soaped and rinsed, we relax a bit with some apple tea. But our Turkish bath is not yet complete. This woman and another give the four of us an oil massage in one big room altogether. The women are strong and are vigorous in their massage! She sings a new song during the massage. But that one I don't learn. I am blissed out.

Tea, Sugar and A Dream

That's how our group was taught to say 'thank you' in Turkish. The actual words are 'teşekkür ederim'. If you can master a true Turkish accent, even better.

Spontaneous Performance of Turkish Music

What a great day I was having exploring the Beyoğlu neighborhood of Istanbul. That was where I discovered Naturel Muzik store and met Salih Ok.

Salih is from the Trabzon area of Northeastern Turkey, on the Black Sea. When I met him last April, he was finishing up his studies at Marmara Üniversitesi in Istanbul.

We have maintained a relationship through email and Facebook, where we continue to share music with one another. In this 47 second video, Salih plays three different instruments; tulum, kemençe, and sus.